γ-Polyglutamic Acid (γ-PGA) is a novel peptide molecule that is a component of the mucilage of the fermented soybean food product commonly found in Japan called natto. The International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) name of γ-PGA is natto gum and it is classified as a film-forming agent. Film–forming agents are a group of chemicals that leave a pliable, cohesive, and continuous covering over the hair or skin when applied to their surface. The fermented soybean mucilage consists of a mixture of γ-PGA and fructan produced by Bacillus natto. Large-scale production of γ-PG is use starch and glutamic acid as raw materials, refined by modern bio-engineering technology and macromolecular crystallization separation technology.γ-PGA, a better choice than HA (hyaluronic acid) because can absorb water 5000 times of its weight. It has molecular weight more than 700kDA (kiloDalton) therefore it produces great cushioning and hydration benefits for the body. So its called as long lasting moisturizing agent. We can use it from 0,01% until 0,6% in gel or cream application.
- γ-PGA has white powder appearance, so it must be dispersed firstly in water. Use 1:20 (γ-PGA : water), example if you use 0,1 gram, dispersed it in 2 gram water in cold process.
- After it, you can add into the gel or in cream in cold process system
- It will be decrease the viscosity of the final product, so before you make the formulation, I suggest to increase the viscosity when you calculate the raw material. If you use gel base, you can increase the quantity of carbomer or Xanthan Gum. But if you has cream formulation, you can increase the quantity of emulsifier or base cream such as stearic acid or Cetyl Alcohol.