Spicule Technology in Cosmetics: Clinical Insights from Natori’s 3rd & 4th Gen Solutions

6 August 2025

Spicules in Skincare

Spicules are natural microstructures derived from freshwater or deep-sea sponges found in regions such as Russia, Europe, and China. Composed mainly of calcium and silica, these needle-like particles function as natural microneedles, enhancing the delivery of active ingredients—such as vitamins, peptides, and anti-aging compounds—deep into the skin when used in skincare formulations. 

Understanding Different Generations of Spicules

Technology like spicule in skincare formulation has evolved significantly. Here's a quick breakdown of the key generations:

  • 1st Generation: Natural Spicule
    Purified spicules extracted from sponges, used purely for exfoliation and stimulating skin regeneration.

  • 2nd Generation: Extract-Coated Spicule
    Natural spicules soaked or coated with plant extracts or active ingredients for added skincare benefits.

  • 3rd Generation: PhytoSpicule
    Advanced spicules coated with nano-encapsulated actives (Phytozomes) using Spray Coating Technology for deeper, more stable, and targeted ingredient delivery.


Natori PhytoSpicule: Precision Delivery with Nano-Coated Spicules

What is Natori PhytoSpicule?

Natori PhytoSpicule represents the 3rd generation of spicule technology. These are natural sponge-derived spicules coated with nano-encapsulated actives (Phytozomes) using advanced Spray Coating Technology (SCT). Think of them as microscopic microneedles that not only exfoliate but also transport active ingredients like retinol and TECA deeper into the skin.

Natori PhytoSpicule Benefits

  • Enhances skin regeneration and healing

  • Significantly reduces blackheads, sebum, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL)

  • Improves brightness, redness, and overall skin tone

  • Promotes deeper absorption of ingredients up to 6x more effectively (in-vitro study)

Clinical Study Results on Natori PhytoSpicule

Image 1. Comparison of skin condition improvements between the spicule-treated group (Group A) and the glycolic acid-treated group (Group B)

Clinical tests comparing spicules and glycolic acid showed that PhytoSpicules outperformed in reducing blackheads (p<0.01), improving skin hydration, and boosting tone and brightness across multiple parameters.

How to formulate with Natori PhytoSpicule?

  • Best used in ampoules, serums, or spot treatments

  • Add at the final stage of formulation (not water or oil soluble)

  • Stable up to 100°C, dosage ranges from 0.05–0.68%

Natori GemSpicule: Aesthetic Beads with Skin-Active Core

What is Natori GemSpicule?

Natori GemSpicule takes it a step further as a 4th generation innovation, which is spicules encapsulated within luxurious oil-based beads made with fish gelatin, Arabic gum, and hyaluronic acid. The spicule is hidden inside the bead and activates only upon breakage, making it gentle on application and stunning in appearance.

Natori GemSpicule Benefits

  • Combines visual appeal with high performance

  • Delivers oil-soluble actives directly into the skin

  • Stimulates microcirculation and exfoliation

  • Offers deep moisturization and smooth texture

  • Reduces pore depth and sagging for more youthful skin

Clinical Study Results on Natori GemSpicule

A 10-day clinical study involving 20 female participants (8 aged in their 40s and 12 in their 50s) was conducted to assess the efficacy of a skin serum formulated with Natori GemSpicule. The following results were recorded after 10 days of use:

Reduction in Pore Density

Image 2.  Visible Reduction in Pore Density After Natori GemSpicule Use

The test showed a significant 87.5% reduction in pore density after 10 days, with visible improvement in skin texture and smoothness. Improvements were also observed immediately after the first application.

Improved Skin Elasticity

Image 3. Improved Skin Elasticity with Natori GemSpicule

Cheek elasticity significantly improved after using a serum containing Natori GemSpicule. Ballistometer measurements showed a 19.1% increase in skin elasticity after 10 days of use, with a statistically significant change (p < 0.001) observed even after just one application. These results demonstrate Natori GemSpicule’s ability to restore firmness and skin resilience effectively.

Reduction in Pore Depth


Image 4.  Reduction in Pore Depth After Using Natori GemSpicule

Visual and 3D imaging shows a significant decrease in pore depth after using a serum containing Natori GemSpicule. Within just 10 days, maximum pore depth was reduced by 71.8%, with measurable improvements visible even after one use. Clinical results showed a statistically significant change (p < 0.001), highlighting the serum’s effectiveness in refining skin texture and minimizing pores.

Zero Adverse Reactions Observed 
Throughout the clinical study, no adverse skin reactions such as redness, swelling, itching, or irritation were observed after either single or repeated use of the serum containing Natori GemSpicule. This indicates excellent skin compatibility and safety, making it suitable even for sensitive skin types. 

How to formulate with Natori GemSpicule?

  • Ideal for use in serums, mists, toners, and essences

  • Formulate gently (avoid homogenizers), input temp < 45°C

  • Recommended usage: 0.5–4.0%, visually stunning in clear products

Which Spicule Is Right for Your Brand?

Choose Natori PhytoSpicule if you're focused on:

  • Clinical-grade treatments

  • Deep delivery of active ingredients

  • High-performance, minimalistic formulas

Choose Natori GemSpicule if you're aiming for:

  • A sensory and luxurious consumer experience

  • Visual appeal and gentle application

  • Oil-based actives with high moisturization

Both products are backed by research and proven to transform the skin from within. Whether you’re formulating for anti-aging, acne, or premium exfoliation—Natori Spicules offer a powerful edge in your skincare innovation.

Natori Spicule Distributor

Natori’s advanced spicule technology is here to elevate your next skincare formulation. Ready to take your product to the next level?

Contact Maha today to consult with our experts and request your FREE sample!



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